The city of Piazza Armerina, almost dead in the centre of Sicily, is chiefly famous for the Villa Romana del Casale, with its extraordinary collection of Roman mosaics, the largest and finest still in existence. The Villa is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and, needless to say, any visit to Piazza HAS to take in the complex. There is much else to see besides though. The huge Cathedral was built during the 17th and 18th centuries over an existing church (of which the bell tower is a survivor), along with older Gothic-Catalan windows. The Duomo also has a museum of relics which might occupy an hour or so of your time. Other notable town buildings include the Palazzo Trigona, the Churches of Fundro (1613), San Giovanni Evangelista (14th century),St Martin of Tours (1163) and Santa Maria del Gesù (16th century), which is currently abandoned. There is the Baroque Church of St Roch, with its carved portal of tufa and the 12th century Hermitage of St Andrew. See too the Aragonese Castle (1392-96) and the Priory Church of Sant’Andrea (11th century). The city’s main celebration is the Palio dei Normanni, a costumed re-enacting of the entrance of Count Roger I to the city. An interesting idiosyncracy is the local dialect, which differs markedly from neighbouring towns. William II of Sicily repopulated the town with settlers from Lombardy during the latter 12th century, most of them from Monferrato and Piacenza. The northern Italian dialect still persists in this ‘Lombardic’ comune.
October 2007
October 17, 2007
October 12, 2007
Italy’s smallest region, Valle d’Aosta is tucked into the north-west corner of the country, surrounded by the Alps, and bordered by France to its west, by Switzerland to the north, and by Piedmont (Piemonte) to the south and east. The region, which has an autonomous status within is also the least populous and the least densely populated. The history of Valle d’Aosta is inextricably linked with that of France (the region is bilingual) and in some of the valleys the old German-based dialect, which the early settlers brought with them from Switzerland, is still spoken.
Valle d’Aosta (the Aosta Valley) has tributary valleys which include the Italian sides of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco) and unsurprisingly winter sports are big here, with the ski resort of Courmayeur. This is also beautiful country for walking and hiking, kayaking and rafting during the summer months: much of Valle d’Aosta is covered by the Gran Paradiso National Park (Italy’s earliest national park) with the mountain of Gran Paradiso the highest peak. Once part of the Dukedom of Savoy, Aosta is linked to France (and the Savoy region) by the Mont Blanc Tunnel, with other connections via the Great St Bernard Pass and the Little St Bernard Pass. The nearest international airports are Turin Caselle (to the south) and Milan Malpensa and Linate (east), or there is Geneva (north west on the Swiss side).
Unsurprisingly, this mountainous region doesn’t have any really big towns, with the nearest city being Turin (Torino) in Piedmont to the south. Most of the towns are ranged along the base of the valley, and the main road that winds up from Turin to Courmayeur and the Mont Blanc Tunnel: the main town here is Aosta itself.
Others lie in the tributary valleys. These include Val Gressoney (where a dialect of German is spoken) and the town of Pont St Martin and the twon resorts of Gressoney St Jean and Gressoney La Trinite. The valley is more reminiscent of Switzerland than Italy, with Alpine chalets and Monte Rosa and its glacier at the head of the valley. Val d’Ayas is a lovely valley, with Monte Rosa at one end, and its slopes thickly wooded. The main ski resort here is Champoluc. Brusson has good Alpine walking. Valtourneche has the Matterhorn (Cervino in Italian) and the big ski resort of Breuil-Cervinia.
The town of Aosta is circled by the Alps, has good access to the Gran Paradiso National Park and to the ski resorts on Mont Blanc. This is an old Roman town and there is a scattering of remains, including the Roman Bridge and the Foro Romano. The 13 valleys that carve through the region have a scattering of medieval castles, which only enhance the fairytale atmosphere, including the Castello di Sarre and castles at Verres, Fenis and Challant.
The southern part of Valle d’Aosta comprises the Gran Paradiso National Park and there are very few villages. This is stunningly beautiful countryside, with ibex, chamois and golden eagles. This is a botanists’ dream too, with numerous rare and protected flowers in the park’s three valleys (Cogne, Valsavarenche and Val de Rhemes). Any development in the park is very carefully controlled, but there are good campsites and mountain refuges (rifugi and bivacci) for climbers and hikers. Villages to look out for include Cogne, Valnontey, Pont, Breuil and Degioz. Head west to the remote and beautiful valley of Valgrisenche and the village of Arvier (remarkably it has a rail station). Other villages include Valgrisenche itself and Bonne.
Feste, fair and pageants abound as they do in all regions of Italy. Some of the most noteworthy include the following. In January, Pont Saint Martin Verres has its historical parade and Roman carnival, complete with chariot race. In February, Courmayeur has its carnival, welcoming Spring, Nus has an historical carnival and Saint Vincent the children’s carnival. March sees the snow carnival at Pila. In April, Brissogne has the Rebatta competition (a large spiked ball hurled through the air), while Pollein has its Tsan tourney (a nascent form of rounders). In May, Nus has its wine festival, complete with al fresco banquet. June sees the Festival of St John in Gressoney Saint Jean. July has the Ham Festival in Saint-Rhemy-en-Bosses. August in Gaby sees the Polenta Picnic, and the Shepherds’ Festival in La Thuile. September has the Grape Festival at Chambave, October the Apple Festival in Gressan. December has the spectacular hot air balloon exhibition in Aosta (including flights up Mont Blanc). There are numerous living nativity scenes around the region, and Cervinia is of special note, with the marvellous torchlit procession on skis.
